Perfume & Fragrance

EDT, EDP and parfum: what the labels mean

The names on a perfume box describe how much perfume oil is dissolved in the base, which is usually alcohol. Exact figures vary from one perfume house to another, but as a rough guide:

• Eau de toilette (EDT) has a lower concentration, often around 5% to 15%. It feels lighter and usually needs reapplying during the day.
• Eau de parfum (EDP) sits higher, often around 15% to 20%, and generally lasts longer once applied.
• Parfum, sometimes called extrait, is the most concentrated, often 20% or more, so a small amount goes a long way.

Concentration is not the only factor. The notes matter too: citrus and watery notes fade faster, while woods, musk, amber and vanilla stay for longer. Our guide to EDT vs EDP vs parfum explains the percentages in more detail, and the label on each bottle tells you which one you are buying.

Choosing a scent by family and season

• Fresh and fruity: Watermelons pairs watermelon with green mandarin and cut grass, and White Peaches sets peach and elderflower over silver birch. Both suit warm days.
• Citrus with weight: Blood Oranges puts blood orange over musk, woods and smoky leather, so it holds on longer than most citrus scents. It is the easiest one to choose for someone else.
• Floral: Tallulah's Camellia (bluebell, white flowers and blond woods) is the lightest floral and stays close, which makes it an easy office scent. Lilacs & Gooseberries is sharper, and Melrose Apple Blossom adds salted toffee apple and lemon bamboo.
• Gourmand: Salt Caramel (caramel, tonka bean, sea salt and sandalwood) and Black Tulip (plum, white chocolate and cyclamen) are sweet scents with something to cut the sugar. Gourmands tend to work better in colder weather.
• Dark and rich: Atropa Belladonna layers cassis and jasmine over patchouli and vanilla for autumn and winter evenings. Oud Alif Fragrance Noir combines oud, saffron and dark chocolate and is the heaviest scent in the range.

Why start with a 10ml purse spray

A scent can smell different on you than on a friend or a paper strip, and gourmand, peach and lilac notes are the ones most likely to change. A 10ml purse spray lets you wear a scent for a few weeks before committing to the 100ml bottle. It also fits a handbag or coat pocket for topping up lighter scents during the day, and it can go in hand luggage when you travel.

Patch testing and allergen labels

If you have reacted to a fragrance before, or are trying a scent for the first time, do a patch test. Spray a small amount on the inside of your forearm, leave it uncovered and wait 48 hours before using it more widely. Stop using any scent that causes redness or itching.

Perfumes sold in the UK must name certain fragrance allergens in the ingredients list when they are present above set levels. Common ones include limonene, linalool, citral, geraniol and coumarin. If you know you react to a particular ingredient, check the list on the box before use. Keep perfume away from your eyes, and store bottles away from heat and direct sunlight.