Men's Shoes

How to get the size right buying online

Men's shoe sizing varies more between styles than most people expect, and the label is the least reliable part of it.

• Measure your foot rather than assuming your size. Stand on paper with your heel to a wall, mark your longest toe, measure in centimetres, and compare against the product page chart.
• Measure in the afternoon: feet swell up to half a size through the day.
• Use the larger foot. Most people have a measurable difference between the two.
• Allow about 1cm between your longest toe and the end of the shoe.
• Formal shoes fit closer than trainers. A derby in your trainer size will usually feel large.

Choosing the right shoe

Derby, Oxford and brogue

A derby is open-laced and more forgiving on a higher instep than an Oxford, which has closed lacing and a sleeker line for formal wear. Brogues add punched detailing and sit comfortably between the two. The derby is the versatile smart shoe: it works with a suit and with chinos. Leather moulds to the foot over the first few wears, so a snug fit at purchase is correct; a loose one stays loose.

Loafers

Slip-on, no laces, smart-casual. Because there's no lacing to adjust, fit matters more: a loafer that's slightly large will slip at the heel and never stop.

Casual trainers

Everyday wear and walking. Leather and leather-look uppers dress up better than mesh; mesh and canvas breathe better in summer. If you walk to work in the rain, look for a pair described as waterproof, such as the AquaStride.

Hiking shoes and outdoor boots

Deeper tread and more grip than a city trainer. Water resistance varies by pair, so check the product page. Worth having if you walk on trails or in mud: ordinary trainers offer no grip on wet slopes and no protection from stones underfoot.

How to break in leather shoes

• Wear them indoors first, an hour or two at a time over a week. New leather shoes on a full day out is how blisters happen.
• Wear the socks you'll wear with them.
• Treat hot spots before they blister: a plaster on redness prevents damage; a plaster on a blister is too late.
• Leather stretches in width, not length. A shoe that's too short will never fit.

How to make shoes last years rather than months

• Rotate two pairs. Shoes need 24 hours to dry internally between wears. Alternating roughly doubles the life of both, and it's the single most effective thing you can do.
• Use shoe trees or stuff with newspaper in leather shoes. They absorb moisture and hold the shape, preventing the creases that eventually crack.
• Polish leather every few weeks. It's not cosmetic; conditioning stops the leather drying out and splitting at the flex point.
• Clean off winter road salt immediately. It's corrosive and leaves permanent white marks on leather.
• Never dry shoes on a radiator. Direct heat cracks leather and can unstick soles.
• Resole good shoes before the sole wears through. Once it breaches the upper, they usually can't be repaired.
• Undo the laces. Kicking laced shoes off destroys the heel counter, which is what makes old shoes collapse at the back.

When to replace trainers

Cushioning fails long before the uppers look finished. Replace when the tread is smooth where you strike first, when the shoe twists easily in your hands, when the midsole shows compression creases, or when you notice new aches in knees or shins after walking. For regular walking, most trainers are past their useful life at 500 to 800km.